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The Judgment of Paris and the Rise of Wine Critics

In 1976, noted wine critic Steven Spurrier organized a blind taste test in Paris, with French judges selected to assess the quality of the top California Cabernet Sauvignons and Chardonnays against the best wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy. Each entry was to be graded on a scale of twenty points, with no specific criteria. In the end, the American entries won the top grades in the red and white wine categories. The French press ignored the event after the results came down. But a reporter from Time Magazine was there and told the world.

From there, interest in American wine took off. California winery owners such as Robert Mondavi and Joe Heitz began accumulating prime parcels of land thanks to improved market conditions, and the production of premium wines grew exponentially. Tastes in the United States gradually extended beyond jug wines, and the demand for premium wines increased.

Culture shifts played a role in the industry’s growth as well. James Bond appeared on the big screen, drinking Dom Perignon instead of the cliché́ “martini, shaken, but not stirred.” Characters in other popular movies were requesting specific wines, glamorizing expensive vintages across the country and world. In the 1980s, the extraordinary strength of the dollar against European currencies motivated vineyards to ship their products to America, where they could profitably sell their fine and rare wines at advantageous prices.

The credibility of a small handful of wine reviewers took on even greater weight and credibility as the years passed after the Judgment of Paris. In addition to Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, consumers began relying on the judgment of publications like Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, and International Wine Cellar. These publications became so incredibly powerful that they could make or break a wine, or winery, based upon its scores. The reviewers also solidified the credibility and reputation of the small handful of winemakers who consistently received high ratings. People began to know that the name Château Lafite-Rothschild meant high quality.