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Artisanal Mezcal Part III: Aging Requirements and Serving Advice

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If a finished mezcal is bottled right away as is typical, it will be called blanco or silver. If the spirit is aged in cask between 60 days and one year, it is called reposado or rested. If the spirit is aged between one and three years, it is called anejo or aged. In 2006, a new category called extra anejo was introduced for agave spirits that see more than three years of aging in wood. Generally, aged mezcals are meant to be consumed after a meal in the manner of Scotch, Cognac, and aged Rums. A fifth category, joven refers to a group of specialty spirits made by blending extra anejo and blanco styles (such as the super-premium tequila Casa Dragones which is made in a continuous still and thoroughly filtered -- a hyper-modern product in stark contrast to traditional mezcal).

Despite this scale of aging classifications, many artisans insist that blanco is the superior form of mezcal, as the flavor of wood masks and softens the intrinsic flavors of the agave and the production process. These same proponents of the artisanal process suggest that mezcal should be served neat (traditional accompaniments include orange or lime wedges and a blend of salt, chili, and ground guisano worms). That said, many top mezcal producers are now experimenting with aging in wood; Del Maguey, for example, is playing with new French barriques and used bourbon barrels.