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A Primer on Brandy Part IV: Armagnac Subregions and Grape Varietals

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Armagnac

Armagnac is located in the southwestern department of Gascony approximately 100 miles south of Bordeaux. Armagnac is the oldest Brandy produced in France, predating Cognac by 150 years, but its geographical isolation as well as its smaller size (approximately 10% of the area of Cognac) have made it less commercially successful. To this day, Armagnac is considered as a backwoods cousin to Cognac; there is far less regulation and oversight in the region, and the producers are much smaller in scale than the large houses of Cognac. Generally speaking, however, Armagnac is more rustic, fiery, and flavorful than Cognac, and has a greater presence in restaurants as well as the cellars of connoisseurs.

Subregions of Armagnac

Bas-Armagnac - The term “Bas” indicates lower elevation, not quality, as the highest concentration of quality minded grower-producers is found here. The soil there is sandy with deposits of iron and clay that yields spirits that are very supple in their youth.

Armagnac-Ténarèze - Home to most of Armagnac’s négociants, the soils here are harder (clay and limestone), yielding spirits that are firmer in their youth but very ageworthy.

Haut-Armagnac - The least productive subregion; only a few independent producers exist here, and the limestone soils generally produce spirits that are flat and hard.

Grape Varietals

Unlike Cognac, Armagnac is typically produced from a blend of varietals rather than a single grape. Of the nine permitted varietals, four are most common: Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Folle Blanche, and Baco, the only hybrid grape varietal allowed in any French AOP appellation. Each of these grapes contributes different flavors to the spirit. Folle Blanche brings feminine character, high-pitched aromatics, and a light texture (the soprano of Armagnac grapes). Ugni Blanc has deeper floral and spice aromatics (the alto). Colombard is herbal with notes of freshly mowed hay, but most makes its way into the still wines of the Cotes de Gascogne (the tenor). Baco is the fullest in body, showing some jammy fruit notes but lacking the elegance of the other three (the bass).